Why I Switched to Tubeless Tires (And Why I’m Not Going Back)
As a long-distance cyclist, I’ve dealt with my fair share of flats. There’s nothing worse than losing momentum — or missing your training window — because you’re stuck on the side of the road, pulling out tire levers and tubes while watching the sun climb higher. It wasn’t just inconvenient. It was getting old.
Since switching to tubeless, my number of flats has dropped dramatically. I still carry a tube just in case (and you should too), but I can’t remember the last time I actually needed it.
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🛞 What Are Tubeless Tires, Anyway?
Tubeless tires are exactly what they sound like — tires without inner tubes. Instead, they rely on a tight seal between the tire and rim, along with a small amount of liquid sealant inside the tire that automatically fills and seals small punctures.
It’s the same technology mountain bikers have used for years, and road cyclists have finally caught on — especially those of us who ride longer distances and hate standing on the shoulder with a flat.
✅ Tubeless Tire Pros (Why I Switched)
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Fewer Flats
This is the big one. The sealant inside your tire often plugs small holes before you even know you had a puncture. I’ve finished plenty of rides, checked the tire later, and found dried sealant where a tube would’ve failed. -
Lower Tire Pressure = More Comfort
With no tube to pinch, you can safely run lower pressure. That smooths out rough chip-seal and patched roads, which helps reduce fatigue over long miles — especially for older knees, backs, and hands. -
No Pinch Flats
Hit a pothole with a tube, and you risk a classic “snake bite” flat where the tube gets pinched between tire and rim. With tubeless? That problem basically goes away. -
Better Rolling Resistance
Some lab tests — and my legs — say that tubeless setups can reduce rolling resistance a bit. On long rides, every little bit of free speed helps. -
More Confidence on Long Rides
For a long-distance cyclist, fewer flats mean fewer interruptions, less stress, and more time in the saddle. I don’t spend nearly as much time wondering, “What if I flat 40 miles from home?”
Gear That Makes Going Tubeless Easier
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Orange Seal Tubeless Sealant (Endurance Formula) — Long-lasting sealant that plugs most small punctures fast.
Check Orange Seal sealant on Amazon -
Schwalbe Tire Levers — Tough, rim-friendly levers that make stubborn tires much easier to mount and remove.
See Schwalbe tire levers on Amazon -
Muc-Off Tubeless Presta Valves (44 mm) — Quality valves with removable cores that work on most tubeless-ready rims.
See Muc-Off tubeless valves on Amazon -
Giro Fixture II MIPS Helmet — Not tubeless-specific, but this is the kind of modern helmet I ride with when I’m trusting my tires on long, fast descents.
See the Giro Fixture II MIPS helmet on Amazon
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❌ Tubeless Tire Cons (Because Nothing’s Perfect)
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Setup Can Be Tricky
The initial install takes some patience. Getting the tire to seat properly, hearing that loud “pop” as it locks into the rim, and avoiding a sealant shower can all be a little intimidating the first time. -
More Maintenance
Tubeless isn’t “set it and forget it.” You need to top off or replace your sealant every few months. Let it dry out and you’re basically back to riding a tire with no backup plan. -
Tire and Rim Compatibility
Not every wheel or tire is made for tubeless. You need tubeless-ready rims and tires designed for a proper seal. Always check compatibility before you buy. -
Emergencies Still Happen
A big puncture, sidewall cut, or torn bead can overwhelm sealant. You still need to carry a tube, tire boot, and basic repair kit. Tubeless reduces flats — but it doesn’t make you invincible.
🚴♂️ My Verdict After Thousands of Miles
Switching to tubeless didn’t just reduce flats — it gave me more confidence on long solo rides, more comfort on rough roads, and less time worrying about what’s happening under my tires.
Is it completely flat-proof? No. But compared to my years of riding with tubes, the peace of mind has been worth every bit of the setup hassle and occasional sealant top-off.
If you're a long-distance cyclist tired of flats — and you’re ready for a small learning curve — I highly recommend giving tubeless a try.
Sometimes the road throws enough challenges your way. Your tires don’t need to be one of them.
Related Posts You Might Like
- 5 Bike Repairs You Can Do Without a Shop Visit — Simple fixes (including flats) that keep you rolling when things go wrong.
- Top Cycling Gear I Recommend — The clothing, tools, and safety gear that have actually earned a place on my bike.
- Top Cycling Visibility Tips for Riding in Traffic or Low Light — Because staying upright matters more than any tire system.
FAQs About Tubeless Tires for Everyday Cyclists
Do tubeless tires completely eliminate flats?
No. Tubeless tires dramatically reduce flats from small punctures, but big cuts, sharp metal, or torn sidewalls can still take you out. That’s why I still carry a tube, tire boot, and basic repair kit on every ride.
Can older rims be converted to tubeless?
Sometimes. Some “tubeless compatible” rims convert easily with rim tape, valves, and sealant. Older or very narrow rims may not be safe or reliable for tubeless. If in doubt, ask a trusted local bike shop or consider upgrading to modern tubeless-ready wheels.
How often should I replace or top off sealant?
In my experience, every 2–4 months is a good rule of thumb, depending on your climate and how often you ride. Hot, dry weather dries sealant faster. If you shake the wheel and don’t hear much liquid, it’s time to refresh.
Is tubeless worth it for short, casual rides?
If you mostly ride close to home and don’t mind fixing the occasional flat, tubes are still fine. Tubeless really shines for riders who hate flats, ride rough roads, or do long solo miles where a flat can wreck the whole day.
What pressure should I run with tubeless?
Lower than you ran with tubes — but not so low that the tire feels squirmy. Start a few PSI lower than your old tube setup and adjust based on comfort, grip, and how the tire feels in corners. Heavier riders usually need a bit more pressure; lighter riders can often go lower.

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